I am very fortunate to live in the San Francisco
Bay region of northern California. When not traveling, I head out several times
a week and hike up into the hilly Marin Headlands, an extensive protected area
that few would hesitate to call “nature.” The evergreen shrubs and patchy
grasslands afford spectacular coastal vistas and erupt into a kaleidoscope of
wildflowers come springtime. The plentiful animal spottings include red-tailed
hawks, coyote, alligator lizards, quail, mule deer, rough-skinned newts, gray
fox, monarch butterflies, ravens, and even the rare gray whale spout.
Occasionally I’m startled by the last-second exit of a slithering garter snake
or a bounding rabbit. Bobcats, in contrast, not infrequently sit a few feet off
the trail, observing me in that classic disinterested feline manner as I stroll
past.
Here, the greatest threats to human life and limb
are tics and poison oak, or perhaps a sprained ankle. I’m told that mountain
lions still visit the headlands once in a blue moon, but in six years I have
yet to glimpse one. (Oh how I would love to see a mountain lion.) Encounters
with other humans, although more common than deer sightings, are sufficiently
infrequent that I feel I have escaped the anthropocentric world, at least for
awhile. In short, my bipedal excursions into the hills come close to
epitomizing the idyllic image of a nature outing—a gorgeous setting that
replenishes body, mind, and spirit.
Yet, were I to have hiked in this same place 150
years ago—a span of only two human lifetimes—the experience would have been
vastly different. It’s for good reason that California’s state animal is the
grizzly bear. For thousands of years, local indigenous peoples lived (and
occasionally died) under the daily threat of grizzlies. Bears were still a
dominant force when Europeans arrived. In 1602, the Spanish maritime explorer
SebastiĆ”n VizcaĆno elected not to land at certain points along the California
coast because of the sheer numbers of these giant carnivores. As European
settlements expanded in the ensuing centuries, the golden bears stood fast,
killing livestock and wreaking havoc with the settlers. Somewhat ironically,
given their name, gold was the bears’ ultimate undoing. Within 75 years of the
discovery of this precious metal in California—a single human lifetime—the
state’s grizzlies were wiped out, the final one in 1922. The last known human
Californian to die in a grizzly attack was lumber mill owner William Waddell,
in 1875. A creek in Big Basin Redwoods State Park still bears his name.
Often as I hike the trails near my home, I imagine
how I would feel if there were a real chance of running into a
grizzly—or wolves, which also lived here. Would I react differently to those
rustling bushes? Would I pay greater attention to my surroundings? Would my
sense of calm and relaxation be marred by that ever-present possibility of
becoming an animal’s next meal? I’m quite certain that the answer would be yes
for all of the above. Having spent a significant amount of time searching for
fossils in the wilds of sub-Saharan Africa, sometimes in places where big
carnivores like lions, leopards, and hyenas still roam, I can attest to the
spectrum of emotions experienced when one is a potential link in the food
chain. Living in cities devoid of big carnivores, we forget that people
throughout almost all of human history have dealt with animal threats.
When our kind first arrived in the northern
California area around 13,000 years ago—only 175 human lifetimes—they
discovered a landscape more closely akin to the modern Serengeti than to
present-day San Francisco. This was the tail end of the Pleistocene, the waning
stages of the most recent Ice Age. The region was home to a bewildering array
of impressive creatures: mammoths and mastodons, giant ground sloths and
camels, broad-horned bison and condors, saber-toothed cats and dire wolves,
American lions and short-faced bears. Of this mega-mammal menagerie, Arctodus, the short-faced bear, may have
been the greatest terror. Weighing about 2,000 pounds and perhaps 13 feet tall
when standing on its hind legs, this massive carnivore would have dwarfed a
grizzly. And unlike modern bears, Arctodus
was long-legged, built for speed. Imagine rounding the corner on a trail to
find yourself face to face with such a creature!
California is not special in this regard. Wherever
you live, you can be certain that an abundance of huge animals roamed in the
not too distant past—a duration measured in centuries rather than millennia.
Rarely do we consider the fact that we inhabit a biological anomaly, an
impoverished shadow-realm in which big predators are few, prowling the fringes
of our world. For all but a few short geologic intervals during the past 250
million years (following mass extinction events), oversized carnivores have
been ever-present in the bulk of Earth’s ecosystems, both on land and in the
oceans.
What happened to the wondrous Ice Age beasts in
North America and elsewhere? We killed most of them. Yes, debate still ensues
over the role of other factors, particularly climate change, but compelling
evidence points squarely at us. Humanity originated in Africa about 200,000
years ago. In a major exodus that began about 60,000 years ago, we quickly
spanned the globe, killing off most of the charismatic megafauna on every
newfound landmass, whether island or continent. More recently, armed with boats
and increasingly efficient hunting technologies, populations of whales and
other sea-going giants have been depleted more than 90%. I don’t mean to imply
that humans have never lived in harmony with their native ecosystems. They
certainly have. But usually those ecosystems have first been depleted of their
big-bodied inhabitants.
Nature in its full glory is messy and dangerous, equally
worthy of joy and fear--and sometimes disgust. Parasites, maggots, and coyotes tearing apart
week-old fawns are as much a part of the natural world as towering redwoods and
soaring eagles. We humans came of age enmeshed in environments at once
awe-inspiring and danger-filled. In the sanitized West, we have progressively
lost both kinds of experiences, replacing them with a utilitarian substitute
that views nature as the ultimate big box store full of commodities.
Today, a growing movement seeks to reinstate that ancient sense of nature as divine, spiritual, or sublime—a sacred ground of being to
commune with. But in our earnestness to romanticize nature, we forget the fear
factor that is equally a part of our wild heritage. What have we lost by rising
to the top of the food chain and vanquishing the bulk of our competitors? What
are we missing by living apart from most wild creatures? Given that virtually every
ecosystem around the globe has been impacted by human activities, and generally
not for the better, what kind of nature is still out there, and where can we
find it? What kinds of experiences do we need to form a meaningful bond with
nature?
I will explore answers to these questions in future
posts. For now, I invite you to head outside and imagine a world in which you
share the web of life with a bounty of other large creatures, some of them
toothy and meat-loving. These days I regularly engender such thoughts as I
wander through the headlands. I find that such machinations are slowly shifting
my perspective, helping me see myself as embedded within nature rather than
outside and above it.
Equally if not more important are periodic visits
to wild places; places where humans are not in control, where nature is raw,
untamed, maybe even dangerous. Nighttime walks are especially effective at
awakening the senses and opening new windows of awareness. Such experiences
will foster not only a sense of awe and wonder, but humility—a sense of
something much deeper and more meaningful than our puny human-centered obsessions.
Ultimately, the human-nature connection, and perhaps even the path to
ecological sustainability, could depend on this periodic wilding of the mind.
Ok, time for another hike . . .
Ok, time for another hike . . .
Image Credits (From top to bottom)
Images 1-3 come from the author
Image 4: www.thenaturalpatriot.org
Note: The above post was inspired in part by an excellent essay called
“False Idyll,” written by J. B. MacKinnon and published in the May/June issue
of Orion Magazine.
Scott: Great post. I'm inspired and look forward to your new stuff. Don
ReplyDeleteThanks very much Don. I appreciate your kind remarks. Much more to come.
ReplyDeleteScott, have you read David Quammen's "Monster of God," about humans and large predators?
ReplyDeletehttp://www.amazon.com/Monster-God-Man-Eating-Predator-Jungles/dp/0393326098/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318047350&sr=1-1
I have read some of other Quammen's books. He is an excellent writer. But I have not read Monster of God. Will have to check it out. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteWow, what an inspiring post. I never thought it possible to enjoy hiking more than I presently do, but every hike after reading this will definitely be greater. I'm fortunate enough to live in a city attempting to preserve and restore as much as possible. We have many escapes in Austin, TX. Even hiking near the highway, you can barely hear the vehicles roaring down the road. Yet, a LOT of people enjoy these trails so most are overrun and the wildlife is limited to songbirds, squirrels, and the smallest creatures. Our coyotes and deer have all been pushed to the towns outside the city. I'm off to find "False Idyll" and "Monster of God" now.
ReplyDeleteJust a side note- my 5 year old daughter loves being outside to explore and find things for her collection. When she grows up she wants to be a scientist. This week she also started a small collection for her 2-year old sister. :) It's all because of you and the Pteranodon family. I really hope you speak in Texas sometime.
-Rebecca
Thanks very much for your comments Rebecca, and for your kind remarks. Both are much appreciated. Austin is a wonderful place with much to see and do, both natural and cultural. I wish you and your daughter all the best enjoying both. Please tell her that Dr. Scott sends on a GIANT hello!
ReplyDelete